I joined Eddie Chen’s southern half of the ‘Wuling Pass from the North towards Eluanbi – a 500-mile cross-country ride in Taiwan’ 北進武嶺南出鵝鑾鼻，縱斷台灣五百哩 in early November 2023 and completed my ‘Slit the Sweet Potato’ project on my bike, cycling through Taiwan’s mountain ranges. For the northern half of my journey, please refer to this post.
During the northern half, we had already climbed Wuling, the highest paved road in Taiwan. In the second half, we cycled through numerous tea farms, and indigenous people’s settlements, all with rich cultural heritage.
Day 1 Puli to Shuili to Heshe (Tongfu)
In the northern half, we concluded the first part in Puli at the Stele of Taiwan’s Geography Center. This time, our support van took us there to start the ride.
We followed County Highway 131 southwards, a beautiful and quiet route adorned with numerous Betel Nut trees. Our first stop was the Antique Assam Tea Farm, a tea plantation featuring a splendid building showcasing their machinery and the tea-making process.
Subsequently, we took a brief detour from County Highway 131 and descended to Checheng Station, the terminus of the Jiji Railway Branch line running from Ershui Station. The section from Jiji Station to Checheng is currently undergoing repairs, and no trains are scheduled to run until the end of 2025.
The Township Road 投59 was the highlight of the day. To allow more time on this route, we bypassed 15km of Provincial Highway 21 by utilizing our support car after having lunch at Shuilie. Township Road 投59 is a narrow road connecting several settlements of the Bunun and Tsou Indigenous people, including Luona (for an interesting post about this village, click here), Mamahavana, and Toungfu in Heshe, Nantou County. While cycling on this route, we could witness various crops cultivated by local farmers, enjoy a bird’s-eye view of the valley, and experience close-up views of the villages.
Route:
- Garmin: https://connect.garmin.com/modern/course/241344581
- Velodash: https://velodash.page.link/sgYw
- komoot: https://www.komoot.com/tour/1392643468
NOTE: To use the routes, please install the App on your smartphone. The App will launch and load the route automatically after you tap the above links on your smartphone’s browser. For Garmin Connect, you can then use the APP to send the route to your garmin device. If your Garmin device is not purchased in Taiwan, you will also need make sure you have the Taiwan map on your device. Here is our blog post on this topic.
Day 2 Tongfu to Tataka to Shizhao (石卓), Zhuqi Township
We bid farewell to Tongfu and commenced our 41 km ascent on the majestic Provincial Highway 21, surrounded by mountains. To reach the peak of Tataka, a popular gathering point for hikers, including those bound for Yushan or Mount Jade, the island’s highwest summit, we needed to ascend more than 2000 meters. It’s crucial to note that the section from Caopingtou to Tataka is only open during daytime and closes from 17:00 to 7:00 the next morning due to the risk of falling rocks.
With the assistance of numerous short tunnels cutting through the hills and easing the slopes, the gradient wasn’t too steep. As we ascended, fog began to gather, with vaporised water in the air condensing into droplets as the temperature dropped at higher altitudes.
During a pause to take pictures, I encountered two strong cyclists, each carrying two full loads of pannier bang on a self-supported tour. They had started from Sun Moon Lake in the morning, aiming to reach Alishan that day, covering a respectable 110 km with 2620 meters of elevation gain. At our supply stop, our driver provided them with various calorie-rich snacks to ensure they had enough “fuel” to reach their destination.
Tataka, situated at an elevation of 2600 meters, marked the highest point of our trip. Eddie mentioned that it typically rains on the other side, especially when the winds blow from the south. We concluded the ride at the top, and our car took us to the Tefuye Historical Trail and the Erwanping Train Station for some short hikes.
The Tefuye Historical Trail, once Tsou Indigenous People’s hunting trails, was utilised during the Japanese rule period for transporting logs via railways. Now it’s a picturesque hiking trail stretching more than 10 km.
Erwanping Train Station is one of the stations of the Alishan Forest Railway, which is not yet fully operational until the summer of 2024. That station offers a platform with a view of the majestic mountains. As no trains were running on this station yet, we walked on the track to see a tree with a giant hole. We left Nantou County and entered Chiayi County.
Route:
- Garmin: https://connect.garmin.com/modern/course/241345225
- Velodash: https://velodash.page.link/NWDP
- komoot: https://www.komoot.com/tour/1392645777
NOTE: To use the routes, please install the App on your smartphone. The App will launch and load the route automatically after you tap the above links on your smartphone’s browser. For Garmin Connect, you can then use the APP to send the route to your garmin device. If your Garmin device is not purchased in Taiwan, you will also need make sure you have the Taiwan map on your device. Here is our blog post on this topic.
Day 3 Shizhao to Xiaolin Village Memorial Park, Car ride to Baolai Hot Spring
We continued our descent along Provincial Highway 18 in Alishan Township after reaching Tataka the previous day. The views of the mountains, adorned with numerous tea farms, remained stunning even at lower altitudes. Eddie then led us onto Qinshan Industry Road, a steep and winding small road that brought us to Chashan Village (also known as Chayamavana), where Bunun, Tsou, and Han people live together. Here we had the opportunity to see coffee trees cultivated by the indigenous tribes.
The afternoon featured a culminating ride through the breathtaking canyon southwards along Provincial Highway 29 from Namaxia District. Provincial Highway 29 runs along the Qishan River, switching between the right and left bank numerous times. Each river crossing presented us with a gigantic rock cliff, resembling a cinema screen. It was truly a unique cycling experience!
We concluded our ride at Xiaolin Village Memorial Park. Beneath this memorial park lies a village where over 400 lives were buried in a landslide caused by Typhoon Morakot in 2009. It serves as a poignant reminder to respect Mother Nature and prioritise safety when exploring the mountains.
We spent a relaxing night in a hot spring hotel in Baolai, Kaohsiung.
Route:
- Garmin: https://connect.garmin.com/modern/course/241346803
- Velodash: https://velodash.page.link/tGBE
- komoot: https://www.komoot.com/tour/1392651041
NOTE: To use the routes, please install the App on your smartphone. The App will launch and load the route automatically after you tap the above links on your smartphone’s browser. For Garmin Connect, you can then use the APP to send the route to your garmin device. If your Garmin device is not purchased in Taiwan, you will also need make sure you have the Taiwan map on your device. Here is our blog post on this topic.
Day 4 Baolai Hot Spring to Wutai
Today, we entered the arena of the Rukai People, which holds special meaning for me as the brand of my bike, Rikulau, is named after the sacred animal of the Rukai People – a clouded leopard. Legend has it that this creature left a footprint trail to the Rukai ancestors, leading them to a forever land for their children in the deepest forest at the foothills of Da-Wu Mountain.
As we continued our ride southwards to slit the sweet potato, we made two detours to climb to Duona in Maolin District for a lunch stop and Wutai for an overnight stay – both are Rukai villages. The most common plaster figures found on the walls of the buildings in the village are of people wearing lily flowers on their heads, signifying a prestigious status that needed to be earned. For a Rukai man, it meant hunting six or five wild boars, while for a Rukai woman, it symbolises virtue and chastity.
Route:
- Garmin: https://connect.garmin.com/modern/course/241376826
- Velodash: https://velodash.page.link/x1xR
- komoot: https://www.komoot.com/tour/1392652831
NOTE: To use the routes, please install the App on your smartphone. The App will launch and load the route automatically after you tap the above links on your smartphone’s browser. For Garmin Connect, you can then use the APP to send the route to your garmin device. If your Garmin device is not purchased in Taiwan, you will also need make sure you have the Taiwan map on your device. Here is our blog post on this topic.
Day 5 Wutai to Eluanbi
We had an early ride today in Wutai to witness the sunrise in the mountains. Afterward, we took a walk in the Rukai village before breakfast.
Our visit included the last indigenous village of our trip: Linali Village. Established after 2009, it was built to accommodate the displaced victims of the Paiwan and Rukai people after Typhoon Morakot destroyed their homes. A well-written post about how the artist striked to preserve the culture in this village here.
As we descended closer to sea level to Wanluan Township, we entered areas mostly inhabited by the Han Chinese. During the Qin rule period around 1683-1695, this region served as a frontier between the indigenous peoples and the Han Chinese, beyond the reach of the Qing administration. The Catholic Church filled this vacuum by providing welfare and protection to the people. The beautiful Wanjin Catholic Basilica was built in 1869, but its history dates back to 1861. In 1875, the Qing emperor recognized the church by erecting stone tablets in front of it after his imperial envoy reported people living in harmony under the influence of Catholicism. In 1984, Pope John Paul II conferred the title of “Basilica” (the highest rank of Catholic churches) upon the church.
After enjoying the famous braised pork ham hock for lunch in Wanluan, our car took us to Hengchun to finish the last leg to Eluanbi. We cycled eastwards on County Highway 200 and 200甲, then southwards on Provincial Highway 26 along the east coast, offering picturesque landscape and the deep, vibrant blue of the sea.
Finally, we reached the southern tip of the island and visited the pristine Eluanbi Lighthouse, standing calmly in the park.
Route:
- Garmin: https://connect.garmin.com/modern/course/241378879
- Velodash: https://velodash.page.link/iQBj
- komoot: https://www.komoot.com/tour/1392820882
NOTE: To use the routes, please install the App on your smartphone. The App will launch and load the route automatically after you tap the above links on your smartphone’s browser. For Garmin Connect, you can then use the APP to send the route to your garmin device. If your Garmin device is not purchased in Taiwan, you will also need make sure you have the Taiwan map on your device. Here is our blog post on this topic.
Conclusion
Eddie has crafted such a fantastic itinerary to showcase the mountains of Taiwan within a limited time frame. Not only is he well-versed in the road conditions of the route, but he also knows the optimal times to reach specific locations. Working seamlessly with our driver, he skillfully skipped some less interesting parts to ensure we arrived at certain places at the perfect moments. His dedication to exploring the mountains, climbing numerous hills to meet indigenous peoples, and highlighting the best of Taiwan’s mountainous terrain reflects his deep love for the island. I feel incredibly fortunate to have joined his tour.
In addition to cycling in a group with a support vehicle, there are various ways to experience cycling in the mountains of Taiwan. One can immerse and roam in the mountains with no fixed schedule, staying in villages and connecting with the local people for more extended periods. Alternatively, a short 3-day trip can cover a smaller part of the mountains, as the urban areas can be reached easily. For those seeking a challenge, a fast-paced approach is possible. The Taiwan Mad Bike Association, for instance, offers a cycling challeng along the mountain within 3 days – Taiwan Twin Towers via the central line.
Regardless of your preferred style, adequate planning, monitoring road conditions, and observing the weather are essential. Be responsible for your own safety and the mountains will reward you with unforgettable experiences.